Le Papillon is one of San Jose’s premier food establishments known for their French specialties and fantastic steaks. Executive Chef Scott Cooper was kind enough to partake in an interview about accommodating for gluten free diets in his kitchen.
(RK= Me, Ryan Kern. SC= Scott Cooper)
RK: How often do you have to accommodate for gluten free customers and how difficult can it be?
SC: During a typical business week, we receive at least 5-10 requests for gluten free meals. Advance notice of gluten free meals gives us the opportunity to anticipate our guest’s needs more appropriately, especially on busy nights. Otherwise, it can be challenging to accommodate special request on short notice. We can give the guest a much fuller dining experience if we can prepare in advance for any special request whether it be gluten free, vegan, low carb or whatever.
RK: When were you first made aware of gluten free diets and when did you start seeing a need to accommodate for them regularly in your restaurant?
SC:I have been aware of gluten free diets for at least a decade or so as the daughter of a good friend was diagnosed with celiac disease. In the last 12 to 24 months the requests for gluten free meals has grown exponentially. It appears that it is many more persons than actually have been diagnosed with celiac disease that are now requesting gluten free meals.
RK: What ingredients do you have to remove and/or replace most frequently for gluten free eaters?
SC: The most common gluten thing to be removed from dishes, especially the Amuse Bouche that are given to guest at the begging of the meal, is bread. It is part of the dining experience at Le Papillon that each guest receives a few small amuse bouche/ and hors d’oeuvres t begin the meal before the order is taken while they may be enjoying a glass of wine and looking over the menu. Much of the hors d’oeuvres are served on or with some bread element. With advance notice we can prepare an alternate for the gluten free guest. The other main substitution that frequently needs to be made is the exclusion of soy sauce. Although we are not an Asian restaurant we believe that soy sauce and other ingredients rich in umami can be important additions to our food. And importantly, they can be somewhat “hidden” and not visually obvious to the diner. This is when it is important for the diner to discuss his or her allergies with the server if they have not already done so when making the reservation.
RK: What other precautions do you take to ensure that gluten free meals are not contaminated?
SC: The other precautions mainly revolve around cross contamination issues such as making sure utensils, knives and cutting boards, etc. do not come in contact with any food destined for anyone with any allergy… Whether it be gluten, shellfish, nuts, or anything.
RK: With the rise of the diet as a trend and a necessity, is it possible that someday you would offer an actual gluten free section on your menu?
SC: I doubt that we would ever offer a section of the menu to be gluten free. We will, of course, continue to make the best food possible for our guests that are gluten free. It is my belief that trend/fad diet adopters of the gluten free diet will find another fad diet to latch onto. Of course, there will always be the people who are truly allergic to gluten and we want to prepare them the best meal we can possibly make, but it appears to me that the new adopters of the gluten free diet are the same people who used to be on the Atkins diet and will move on to another diet as time goes on. This seems to be the nature of our nation and should not be taken as slight to the celiac sufferers who will need to be gluten free for the rest of their lives.
Check out Le Papillon online here.
A huge, special thanks to Irne Gonzalez, Maitre d’, who made this interview and post possible. You’re the best!